Champagne Socialist
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>> dining experience. "I think they're pandering to the typing-pool-who-lunch clientele a bit, don't you?" said The Enthusiast. I had to agree. Tas have tried to gentrify and soften traditional Turkish cuisine a little, with smaller portions and Middle Eastern-fusion elements such as couscous and falafel. But they've done that at the expense of a lot of what made Turkish food distinctive in the first place, leaving you longing for something a bit more punchy. Something with, you know, *balls*. Maybe even actual balls.

Still, it's a nice place to eat, with its beige walls and pot plants and unchallenging live guitar music. But that's the problem: I like restaurants that provoke a strong reaction, but Tas's food, like its walls, was just a little bit too bland for me. cs

by Louise Troy

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